The Betty Sweater from Pickles

Betty-Sweater from Pickles!

There are some great patterns on the web - and Pickles has some of the best in CLASSIC sweaters. The Betty Sweater can be easily made on a knitting machine - just follow the instructions!
Here is just a small example of their patterns - Go take a look, you're going to like what you see.

We´ve been inspired by Mad Men´s Betty, and wondered what kind of sweater she would wear. We´ve made a super simple, yet feminine sweater with raglan decrease. It´s knitted with one strand cotton and one strand alpaca.


Sizes
10-12 y (14-16 y) S (M) L (XL) 
Side 10-12 y for free below. 


Needles
Long circular needles and DP needles US 7 and 10 



Yarn
150 (150) 200 (250) 250 (300) g Pickles Pure Thin Alpaca AND
250 (300) 350 (400) 450 (500) g Pickles Thin Organic Cotton

Alternative yarn: Pickles Pure Thick Alpaca, single stranded:
400 (500) 600 (700) 800 (900) g

  The rest can be bought here.



Gauge
  13 s/20 rows = 4”



Measurements lying flat
  
Chest: about 17.7 (19.7) 20.8 (22) 23.6 (25.6)”

Length: about 19.7 (20.4) 21.2 (22) 22.8 (23.6)”



Body piece

Body piece
The whole sweater is knitted using one strand alpaca and one strand cotton.
Cast on 106 stitches on circular needles US 7. Knit a rib, K1 P1 in the round for about 3”.

Change to US 10 and start knitting in stockinette. Increase 12 stitches evenly throughout the first round =  118 stitches.
Place marker (PM) at the beginning of the round and after 59 stitches to mark the sides in the sweater.

Knit until the piece is 11”. Cast off 2 stitches on each side of the PM = 110 stitches. Put the work aside.



Sleeves
Cast on 32 stitches on DP needles US 7. Knit a rib, K1, P1, in the round for about 3”.
Start knitting in stockinette on US 10 and increase 4 stitches evenly on the first round. Increase 1 s on each side of the first and last s of the round every 1.6” 3 times in total = 42 stitches. Knit until the sleeve is 15”. Cast off the 4 stitches right under the sleeve = 38 stitches. Make another sleeve.



Raglan decrease
Put the sleeve on to the same circular needles as the body piece = 186 stitches. Place markers (PM) in all transitions between the sleeves and the body piece, 4 in total. On every other round you´ll decrease like this:
Knit until you´re 3 stitches away from PM, SSK, K2, K2tog. Repeat on the three other PMs.

When you´ve made 17 decreases and have 50 stitches left. Change to US 7 needles and knit a rib K1, P1 for about 1.2”.
Cast off.


Pickles sweater website HERE

http://www.pickles.no/betty-sweater/2011/4/4/betty-sweater.html

Hand Knitted Enchanted Garden.

Found a fabulous FREE pattern from Spinrite Yarns Online.  Sweaters with this kind of visual interest are my most favorite.  A bit more complex to knit, but so very worth the effort!  Support the manufacturers who provide these patterns!

Enchanted Garden

Bright and colorful fair isle pullover with fun floral designs. Shown in Patons Astra.

Download Pattern 

Abbreviations

Beg = beginning

Dec = decrease(ing)

K = knit

k2tog = Knit next 2 stitches together.

P2togtbl = purl 2 stitches together through back loops

psso = pass slipped stitch over

rem = remain(ing)

rep = repeat

rnd(s) = round(s)

Sl1 = Slip next stitch knitwise.

st(s) = stitch(es)

WS = wrong side

Details & Instructions

MEASUREMENTS

To fit chest measurement
4 yrs	24 ins [61 cm]
6 yrs	26 ins [66 cm]
8 yrs	28 ins [71 cm]
10 yrs	30 ins [76 cm]

Finished chest measurement
4 yrs	28 ins [71 cm]
6 yrs	30 ins [76 cm]
8 yrs	34 ins [86 cm]
10 yrs	36 ins [91 cm]

MATERIALS

Astra
Sizes		4 yrs	6 yrs	8 yrs	10 yrs
	Main Color (MC) ()	4	4	5	5
	Contrast A ()	4	4	5	5
	Contrast B ()	2	2	2	6

Astra (50 g/1.75 oz;147 m/161 yds)
	Contrast C White (02751)	2	2	3	3
	Contrast D ()	1	1	1	1
	Contrast E ()	1	1	1	1
	Contrast F ()	1	1	1	1
Sizes 3.75 mm (U.S. 5) and 4 mm (U.S. 6) knitting needles. Sizes 3.75 mm (U.S. 5) and 4 mm (U.S. 6) circular knitting needles 24 ins [60 cm] long. Set of four size 3.75 mm (U.S. 5) and 4 mm (U.S. 6) double-pointed needles or size needed to obtain tension. 2 st holders.

GAUGE

24 sts and 28 rows = 4 ins [10 cm] with larger needles in Fair Isle pat.

INSTRUCTIONS

The instructions are written for smallest size. If changes are necessary for larger siz es the instr uctions will be written thus ( ).
Note: Lower body is worked in one piece on circular needles.
When working in Fair Isle pat, carry yarn not in use loosely across WS of work but never over more than 5 sts.
When it must pass over more than 5 sts, weave it over and under color in use on next st or at center point of sts it passes over. The colors are never twisted around one another.
When working upper Body of Front, Back and Sleeves, embroider butterflies and flowers in duplicate stitch as indicated on char ts.

BODY
With smaller circular needle and B, cast on 148 (160-184-196) sts. Join in round and placing a marker on first st knit 6 rnds, inc 20 sts evenly across last rnd. 168 (180-204-216) sts.
Change to larger circular needle and proceed as follows:
Work Chart I to end of chart, reading rows from right to left and noting the 12 st rep will be worked 14 (15-17-18) times.
With MC, knit 0 (0-2-2) rnds.
Work Chart II to end of char t, reading rows from right to left and noting the 12 st rep will be worked 14 (15-17-18) times.
With MC, knit 0 (0-2-2) rounds.
Work Chart III to end of chart, reading rows from right to left and noting the 12 st rep will be worked 14 (15-17-18) times.
With MC, knit 0 (0-2-2) rounds.
Work Chart III until 6th row of Chart III is complete.
Armhole shaping for Back: With larger needles and A, cast off 2 (2-6-6) sts. K82 (88-96-102). Tu r n . Leave rem sts for Front on circular needle.

Next row: (WS). With A, cast off 2 (2- 6-6) sts. Knit to end of row. 80 (86-90-96) sts.
Work 1st to 8th rows of Chart IV in stocking st, reading knit rows from right to left and purl rows from left to right, dec 1 st each end of needle on 3rd and following alt rows.
Change to smaller needles and cont working Chart IV dec 1 st each end of needle on every alt row from previous dec until there are 34 (36-36-40) sts. Leave rem 34 (36-36-40) sts on a st holder.
Armhole shaping for Front: With RS of work facing, larger needles and A, cast off 2 (2-6-6) sts. K82 (88-96-102).
Next row: (WS). With A, cast off 2 (2- 6-6) sts. Knit to end of row. 80 (86-90-96) sts.
Work 1st to 8th rows of Chart IV in stocking st, dec 1 st each end of needle on 3rd and following alt rows.
Change to smaller needles and cont working Chart IV, dec 1 st each end of needle on every alt row from previous dec until there are 42 (44-44-50) sts.
Next row: (RS). Sl1. K1. psso. K9 (9-9- 12) (neck edge). Turn. Leave rem sts on a spare needle.
Next row: P2tog. Purl to end of row. Dec 1 st at neck edge on every row AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 st at raglan edge every alt row, from previous dec to 3 sts.
Next row: Sl1. P2tog. psso. Fasten off. With RS of work facing, slip next 20 (22-22-22) sts from spare needle onto a st holder. Join MC to rem sts and knit to last 2 sts. K2tog.
Next row: Purl to last 2 sts. P2togtbl.
Dec 1 st at neck edge on every row AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 st at raglan edge every alt row from previous dec to 3 sts.
Next row: Sl1. P2tog. psso. Fasten off.

SLEEVES
With B and smaller needles, cast on 32 (32-44-44) sts. Work 6 rows stocking st inc 4 sts evenly across last row. 36 (36-48-48) sts.
Change to larger needles and proceed as follows:

Sizes 4 and 6 only: Work Chart V in stocking st (beg at row 25 of chart) to end of chart, reading knit rows from right to left and purl rows from left to right inc 1 st each end of needle on 3rd and every alt row until there are 50 sts, then every following 4th row to 62 (68) sts.

Sizes 8 and 10 only: Work Chart V in stocking st to end of chart, reading knit rows from right to left and purl rows from left to right inc 1 st each end of needle on 3rd and every 4th row to 80 (86) sts.

All sizes: Shape raglans: Next row: With A, cast off 2 (2-6-6) sts. Knit to end of row.
Next row: Cast off 2 (2-6-6) sts. Knit to end of row. 58 (64-68-74) sts.
Work 1st to 8th rows of Chart VI in stocking st, reading knit rows from right to left and purl rows from left to right, dec 1 st each end of needle on 3rd and following alt rows. 52 (58-62-68) sts.
Change to smaller needles and cont working in stocking st dec 1 st each end of needle on every alt row from previous dec to 20 (22-22-26) sts, then on every row until there are 6 (8-8-10) sts.
Leave rem 6 (8-8-10) sts on a safety pin.

FINISHING
Pin garment pieces to measurements.
Cover with a damp cloth leaving to dry.
Neckband: Sew sleeve seams, reversing seam for curl back edges. Sew raglan seams. With RS of work facing, A and larger double pointed needles, K6 (8-8- 10) from left sleeve safety pin. Pick up and knit 13 (15-15-17) sts down left front neck edge. K20 (22-22-22) from front st holder. Pick up and knit 13 (15-15-17) sts up left front neck edge.
K6 (8-8-10) sts from right sleeve safety pin. K34 (36-36-40) sts from back st holder, dec 2 sts evenly across. 90 (102- 102-114) sts. Divide sts evenly on 3 needles. Join in rnd, placing a marker on first st.
1st rnd:With A, purl.
Work Chart VII to end of chart, noting the 3 st rep will be worked 30 (34-34- 38) times.
Next rnd: With B and smaller double pointed needles, knit, dec 8 (8-8-10) sts evenly around. 82 (94-94-104) sts.
Knit 5 more rnds. Cast off.
For upper Front, Back and Sleeves embroider butterflies and flowers using duplicate stitch as shown on Charts IV and VI. Embroider butterfly antennas with stem st as illustrated.

Support the manufacturers who provide us with these wonderful patterns!

Go Green Knit Bag - FREE From KANGAMOOKNITS.COM

Another great find from my archives.  Use up some of those bits & pieces of yarn you have in the stash.  Go Green & mean it!

Go Green Knit Bag - from KangaMooKnits.com

• Finished measurements: 16 x 14 "
• Gauge: 4.5 sts / 6 rows = 1”

• Bulky: Tension 4

• Materials: worsted weight yarn:about 500 yards of assorted worsted weight yarn. 
• Use leftovers! or you can use different kinds of yarn, mixing types for a unique bag

• Single piece strap requires about 80 yards.

Bag

1. Open cast on 49 stitches with waste yarn and knit a few rows. Change to first maincolor. Row counter at zeros.
2. Knit to row counter 192 changing colors frequently throughout.
3. Drop main yarn and knit a few rows with waste yarn. Remove from machine.
4. Turn knitting around and with right side facing, rehang knitting on last row of main yarn. Push stitches behind latches.
5. Be careful not to twist the piece. With wrong side facing, hang row 1 of main yarn on the same needles.  Leave stitches on hooks.  
6. Knit back sts onto front sts. Bind off using yarn still attached. Cut yarn. Remove any waste yarn. 
7. Lay bag flap with seam on one side edge. Place a marker at opposite side at top and bottom. 
8. With wrong side facing, hang 1 side of bag onto 72 needles for bottom of bag. Set row counter to 0.
9.  Knit to rc = 30. Drop main yarn and knit a few rows with waste yarn. Remove from machine.
10.  Turn bag inside out and with right side facing, hang opposite side of bag bottom onto needles. Push these sts behind latches. 
11. With wrong side facing, rehang 72 sts on row 30 of sts previously knit. Remove waste yarn. 
12. Knit back sts onto front sts. Bind off using yarn still attached. Cut yarn. Remove any waste yarn. 
13. With wrong side facing, hang 1 side of top of bag. Row counter at zeros. 
14. Knit 20 rows. Bind off. Repeat for other side of bag 
15. Fold top of bag edging in half, wrong sides together, on each side and sew each edge to inside of bag tucking in any ends. 
16. Sew bottom sides of bag closed. Weave in any ends

Handles:

1. With waste yarn, open cast on 7 sts. Knit a few rows of waste yarn and then change to mail color.
2. Knit to row counter 500. Drop main yarn and knit off onto waste yarn. Remove from
   machine.
3. Being careful not to twist, graph beginning and ending of main yarn sts together .
4. Block bag and strap. Sew strap flat to bag and let edges roll above bag. Line bag ifdesired for sturdiness.

This pattern is intended for personal use only. This pattern is copyrighted and cannot to be sold without permission.

When reproduced, you must acknowledge KangaMooKnits.com as author.

Remember, be certain to attribute this pattern to the owner @KangoMooKnits.

LADIES’ SIDEWAYS KNIT DOLMAN PULLOVER - Clearwater Knits

Sideways Dolman Pullover

Clearwaterknits.com/freepats/dolman
Be sure to visit Clearwaterknits for a variety of additional patterns.

From CLEARWATERKNITS Free Pattern page comes this pattern for a Sideways Dolman Sweater.
Available in two sizes, S-M, and L-XL.

Finished Width 42 (45.5) Inches

MATERIALS REQUIRED: 1 cone Nomis 3/15 in MC, plus approximately 3 oz CC. Any fingering weight yarn which will knit to gauge may be substituted. Two coordinating contrast colors are also very effective. Another pleasing design is to use a metallic, or novelty yarn for the CC, but be sure to try them out on a swatch first to be sure they don’t cancel out the pattern effect.

GAUGE: 8 sts, 11 rows = 1" in Stockinette

TENSION: approximately 7, or whatever is necessary to obtain gauge.
This garment is 24" long after the waistbands are added, riding on top of the hip bones. I first published this pattern in 1987. It has remained popular all this time, and has consistently sold well at craft shows. Since it has only five pieces, back, front, neckband, and two waistbands, it is relatively quick to make. If you produce this garment for sale, my only request is to please be fair and place this line on your tags and labels: Designed by Irene Woods.

BACK
Bring forward 75 needles, 9R - 84R. CO with WY and ravel cord, ending COR. RC 000. T 7. K even to RC 19, COL.
Shape underarm. All shaping is made on L edge only; K even at R edge. Inc 1 st every 6 rows 1x, every 4 rows 1x, every 3 rows 10x, every 2 rows 12x, then inc 2 sts every 2 rows 10x, 3 sts every 2 rows 3x, then 8 sts 1x, ending RC 111 with COL. Bring out 32 more sts and CO. There are now 168 sts, 84L - 84R in WP, and armhole shaping is completed.

Load Fairisle pattern and lock on row 1 of pattern. You will need to refer to your own knitter manual for instructions on programming and using Fairisle patterns. K even to RC 150 (158). Change to Fairisle. Add CC to feeder 2 and change to T 8. K 23 rows of pattern 1. RC 173 (181). Change to Stockinette, T 7. K even with MC only to RC 176 (184), ending COR. Place a CC yarn tag in R edge st to mark neck. BO 2 sts EOR 4x at R edge for back neck shaping.

Program pattern 2 and lock on row 1. K even to RC 211 (221). Change to Fairisle, T 8. Add CC to feeder 2. K 31 rows, RC 242 (252). Change to Stockinette, T 7. K even with MC only to RC 270 (282), COR. CO 2 sts EOR4x. RC 276 (286). Needles 84L - 84R again in WP, and neck shaping is completed. Program pattern 1 and lock on row 1. K even to RC 279 (291). Change to Fairisle, T 8. Add CC to feeder 2. K 23 rows. RC 302 (314). Change to Stockinette. T 7. K even with MC only to RC 341 (361), COL.

Armhole Shaping. All shaping is done on L side only. BO EOR 32 sts 1x, 8 sts 1x, 3 sts 3x, 2 sts 10, 1 st 12x, then dec 1 st every 3 rows 10x, 1 st every 4 rows 1x, 1 st every 6 rows 1x. K even to RC 452 (472) and remove remaining 75 sts on WY.

FRONT
Work same as for back, except for neck shaping. Begin neck after RC 176 (184). All shaping is made on R side only. BO EOR, 12 sts 1x, 2 sts 4x. Load pattern 2 and lock on row 1. K even with MC to RC 211 (221). Change to Fairisle, T 8. Add CC to feeder 2 and K 31 rows of pattern. RC 242 (252). Change to Stockinette, T 7. K even with MC only to RC 268 (280), COR. CO EOR 2 sts 4x, 12 sts 1x. Needles 84L - 84R again in WP. Complete same as for back. Sew R shoulder seam.
NECKBAND
COL. K side of garment toward machine, pick up 183 (191) sts around neck edge. T 7. K 1 row. Change to K1, P1 ribbing. RC 000. T 4/4. K even to RC 10. T 9/9. K 1 row. Clip yarn. Latch off, pulling 2nd st through 1st, 3rd through 2nd, 4th through 3rd, etc. Pull yarn tail through last st to fasten off. Neckband will fit better if tension is tightened 1 "click" every 3 rows. Sew left shoulder seam.
CUFF.
COL. K side toward machine, rehang lower edge of sleeve on 77 needles, doubling every st except first and last. T 7. K 1 row. Change to K1, P1 ribbing. RC 000. T 4/4. K even to RC 32. T 9/9. K 1 row. Clip yarn. Latch off, pulling 2nd st through 1st, 3rd through 2nd, 4th through 3rd, etc. Pull yarn tail through last st to fasten off. Repeat for other sleeve.
WAISTBAND.
Bring forward 145 (161) needles and arrange for K1, P1 ribbing. T 0/0. K 1 row, hang comb and weights. T 1/1. K 3 circular rows. RC 000. T 4/4. K even to RC 32. Transfer all sts to main bed. K side of garment toward machine, hang lower edge evenly onto same needles and BO together. Repeat for other waistband.
FINISHING.

Join underarm seams. This can be done by hand sewing, slip stitch crochet, or by sewing machine, as you prefer. Work in yarn ends

Using Hand Knitting Patterns on the Knitting Machine

Knitting a Cable Blanket 

by Megan Goodacre, author of Idiot’s Guides: Knitting

From  idiotsguides.com

Some of the best patterns are published with information to a related book.  This site is one of the best examples.  Here I find not only patterns, but general knitting information as well.  Be warned, this is a HAND knitting site, but the free patterns are easily transferred to the Knitting Machine.  To become confident in translating patterns from hand to machine, take a look at How to read a Knitting Chart  conveniently located on the IdiotsGuides website. (Click Link)  A collection of patterns at a very low price also appear at this site.

Skills Needed

Combining knits and purls, cables

Finished Measurements

Approximately 28 inches (71 cm) wide and 31 inches (79 cm) long after blocking

Yarn

6 balls medium weight (worsted or aran) weight yarn, 50 grams/110 yards/100m each

Shown in Knit Picks Swish Worsted, 100% superwash merino

Working in stripes is a great way to use leftover yarn. If you choose to work in stripes like the blanket in the photo, you will need just under 2 balls of Color A, and just over 2 balls each of Colors B and C.

Gauge

17 stitches and 25 rows = 4″/10cm in Stockinette Stitch after blocking

Needles

1 pair US 9 (5.5mm/UK 5) circular needles, about 24 inches (60cm) long

Other Supplies

Cable needle

Blunt yarn needle

2 stitch markers (optional)

Abbreviations

k, K: knit

p, P: purl

C6B cable 6 back: slip 3 stitches to cable needle, hold in back. Knit 3, knit 3 from cable needle.

C6F cable 6 front: slip 3 stitches to cable needle, hold in front. Knit 3, knit 3 from cable needle.

WS: wrong side

RS: right side

sm: slip marker

Blanket

Cast on 119 stitches.

Tip: if you want to make a bigger blanket by increasing the width of the middle section, increase the cast on in multiples of 6.

Ribbing

Rib row 1 (RS): K7, *p3, k3; repeat from * until 4 sts remain, k4.

Rib row 2 (WS): K4, *p3, k3; repeat from * until 4 sts remain, end with k4 instead of k3.

Rib rows 3–6: Work as established by Rows 1 and 2.

Cable Pattern

Row 1 (RS): K7, p3, [k9, p3] twice, k3, p3, pm, k39, pm, p3, k3, p3, [k9, p3] twice, k7.

Tip: if you added to your cast on for a bigger blanket, add your extra stitches to the “k39” section.

Row 2 (WS): K4, p3, k3, [p9, k3] twice, p3, k3, sm, purl to marker, sm, k3, p3, k3, [p9, k3] twice, p3, k4. The markers are optional, but I find they are helpful.

Rows 3–6: Work as established by Rows 1 and 2.

*

Row 7 (cable row, braid to the right): K7, p3, [C6B, k3, p3] twice, k3, p3, k39, p3, k3, p3, [C6B, k3, p3] twice, k7.

Row 8: Follow the instructions for Row 2

Row 9 (cable row, braid to the left): K7, p3, [k3, C6F, p3] twice, k3, p3, k 39, p3, k3, p3, [k3, C6F, p3] twice, k7.

Row 10: Follow the instructions for Row 2

Row 11: Repeat Row 7.

Row 12: Follow the instructions for Row 2

Row 13: Repeat Row 9.

Rows 14–24: Work as established by Rows 1 and 2.

Tip: To duplicate the stripes of the sample blanket, cast on with A and work 22 rows. Then work in B for 18 rows, C for 18 rows, B for 18 rows, C for 36 rows, B for 18 rows, C for 18 rows, B for 18 rows, and A for remaining 22 rows.

Repeat the 18 rows from * until the blanket measures about 30 inches, stopping on Row 18 of Cable Pattern.

Ribbing

Work 6 rows of Ribbing. Bind (cast) off.

Finishing

Before blocking, the cables will be somewhat contracted. I recommend wet blocking your blanket to flatten it out. Soak the blanket in tepid water with a few drops of detergent. Rinse and squeeze out the water and lay the blanket flat on clean towels to dry.

Weave in ends.

Now that you know how to make a knit blanket you’ll never be at a loss for a gift—although once it’s finished you might not want to give it away! Happy knitting!

Coliumo Cardigan - Knitting Fever

Knitting Fever Free Pattern - Coliumo Cardigan

One of the snazziest cardigan patterns I've seen in a long while.  Pretty shawl collar, and a different way of looking at the construction of the cardigan itself.  Click the link beneath the photo to visit the Knitting Fever site.

50 Penny Sock For Knitting Machine

A reluctant blogger hits the web. This is a place for FREE Machine Knitting patterns and information regarding the Knitting Machine from resources on the web.  This is a consolidation of patterns  - with the links to the original site.  I don't want to lose track of these patterns, as more sites are shutting down.


First, of more.  I learned a LOT from following this sock pattern.  It's worth a place on this blog. enjoy.

50 Penny Sock from JuneBugsPlace

The 50 Cent Sock, demonstrated at the October, 2000 Tacoma Knitting Seminar, by Alethea Robinson.  
Alethea wrote:  "It looked like fun.  Well, it must be because I have made 6 pairs of socks with this pattern.  Each pair took about one hour!" (Click on sock for larger view)

Machine: ANY gauge knitting machine & ribber
Materials: Any kind of yarn, 50 pennies
Abbreviations:  
     COR - carriage on the right
     COL - carriage on the left
     Circular knitting - (Brother) push in left part button on main carriage and right part button on ribber
     U knitting - (Brother) push in left part button main carriage and right part button on ribber.  Knit 1 row around.  Change carriage settings to right part button on main carriage and left part button on ribber.  Knit 1 row around.  Repeat for desired length. REVERSE FOR 2nd SOCK.
First, pick your yarn and do a swatch to get the gauge.  Next, measure your foot length from heel to toe, and then around your ankle.  (Click here for a sock size and measurement chart)
Length of foot = inches (less 2.5 inches)
Around ankle = inches
Gauge = stitches per inch and rows per inch
This sock starts at the toe.  (Click here for sock diagram) Take ankle measurement times the number of stitches per inch and divide by 2.  This is the number of stitches you will cast on. 
With waste yarn, cast on toe stitches.  Knit several rows.  COR.  Knit one row with ravel cord.  COL.  Now knit one row with sock yarn.  Set carriage to hold (partial) knit. *Pull needle next to carriage to hold position, knit one row.*  Repeat from * to * until one third of the stitches (the stitches in the center) are left in work.  *Now push needle opposite carriage and next to the stitches in work back to work position, knit one row.*  Repeat from * to * until all stitches are back in work. 
Change to the ribber arm.  Hang stitches on ravel cord onto ribber.  NOW FOR THE 50 PENNIES!!!  Place them in the toe of the sock.  This gives you a nice even weight.  Raise the ribber.  Set to knit circular and knit "length of the foot less 2.5 inches."
Turn heel:  Lower ribber bed one click.  Change to main knitting arm and turn heel as you did the toe. 
Replace ribber arm and raise ribber bed to working position.  Set for "U" knitting.  REMEMBER TO OPEN THE OPPOSITE SIDE ON THE SECOND SOCK!  Knit in "U" for 4-5 inches in length.  Take stitches on ribber off on waste yarn (set main carriage so it does not knit in either direction....ie., Brother....push in both part buttons).  Rehang stitches from waste yarn onto main bed.
At this point, finish the sock any way you like, such as 1x1 rib, lattice stitch, or an interesting garter stitch.  (To finish sock as shown in picture, see next paragraph).  Bind off loosely.  Leave yarn tail for seaming.  Remove waste yarn from toe. 
To finish sock as shown in picture, knit 4 inches of 1x1 ribbing ending with COL.  At loosest tension, knit one more row.  Beginning at left, remove stitches onto a size 1 or 2 straight knitting needle (or onto waste yarn).  With contrast color yarn and a size G crochet hook, do 2 single crochets in each stitch across. 
If you are going to fold the ribbing into a cuff, seam the ribbing from the wrong side" using the mattress stitch. Seam the rest of sock from right side.