Fixing the Dreaded Curl

Knitting Machine Tricks & Tips

The Frustration of DEALING with CURLING EDGES IN STOCKINETTE

The way I deal with curling edges for stockinette scarves is to..

1: Move the end stitches out by one needle, and push the second needle from the edge back into
non knitting position.
2: Set the carriage so that these end needles will NOT knit in one direction, but will knit back into
working position on the return row. (On silver reed machines that means putting a Russell lever on
one side of the carriage at, 1 and on the other side on 11. On a Brother machines,if I am not
mistaken, you would have one PART button pushed in to achieve the same thing).
3: Every second row I then manually pull the end needles to 'D' position (that would be 'E' on a
Brother).
This results in the edge stitches being only knitted every second row.
When you take the piece off the machine and stretch it length wise, the space created by the non-
working needle will disappear. You will have an edge equivalent to slipping the first stitch of each
row when hand knitting.
If you do the above without leaving the the space between the edge stitches and the next one, I find
the the edges are too tight. Leaving the second-from-the-edge needles in non-working position
allows just enough give for the end stitches to loosen into a soft edge with much less curl.

Men's STUDIO Knitting Machine Sock

I love making socks on the knitting machine.  This pattern comes thanks to J. Dale Long for an all-purpose sock formula. Read ALL instructions before starting to knit.

Men's STUDIO Knitting Machine Sock

Gauge
11 Stitches per inch
14 rows per inch

Lengths
Height from floor to just below knee: 15 
Height from floor to calf measurement: 11 
Height from floor to ankle bone: 3 

Circumferences
Circumference just below knee: 15 
Circumference at widest part of calf: 15.5 
Circumference at ankle: 9 
Foot from heel to toe: 11 

Knitting Machine Instructions

Ribbing
If you have a ribber, cast 164 stitches onto your machine Set the
tension dial 1 or 2 settings tighter than your gauge tension. Knit
2x2 ribbing for 14 rows.
If not, either knit 14 rows, and ladder/purl by hand or just start
knitting with the body of the sock and pick up onto hand needles
and knit the ribbing up.
Either way, start counting rows from the body, do not count the
ribbing rows

Set Row counter to row 1

Increase towards calf
Knit stockinette stitch, making increases at the edges every 14
rows till you have 170 stitches on the needles. 42 increase rows in
all Continue straight for 13 more rows .You have finished row 55.

Decreases towards ankle
Make paired decreases at the marker every 3 rows till you have 99
stitches on the needles. 105 rows of decreasing, 160 rows total.
Continue straight for 35 more rows. You are at the beginning of
row 196.

Turning the heel
Till now the seam line has run down the center back of the sock.
Now it will zig horizontally along the top of the heel flap, and zag
down the side from there it will travel down side of the foot. either
inside or outside doesn't matter but it is nicer to make a pair of
socks mirror-image. To do so, knit 1 extra row here to put the K-
carriage on the other side of the work before continuing

Decrease 16 stitches on the K-carriage side and knit 1 row.
Increase 16 stitches on the K-carriage side (now the other side from
the decreases)

On the side you decreased, take 49 stitches off the needles and put
them on a holder knit straight for 30 rows
flip the switch on your K-Carriage from N to H Pull 19 needles on
opposite side from the K-carriage forward to the E position. Shift
the 2 stitches next to the held stitches over 1 stitch (decrease 1 on
the 2nd stitch in) Knit 1 row. Pull 19 needles on other side forward
K-carriage forward to the E position. Shift the 2 stitches next to the
held stitches over 1 stitch (decrease 1 on the 2nd stitch in) Knit 1
row.

There are 18 hooks left on hold on each side As you knit the
following, when the gaps get to wide you will need to shift the held
stitches towards the knitting, probably several times
Repeat the following until there are no hooks left in the E
position:
push the 2 held stitches nearest the knitting on the far side from the
K-carriage back into working position. pick them up on a 2 prong
tool and overlap 1 stitch onto the knitting (decrease 1). Knit 1 row.
End repeat.
if there is only 1 held needle when you reach the edge move it next
to the last knit stitch, and proceed

Ankle Gussets
At this point you will need to re-center your knitting. This is the
best time since there are very few stitches. Take the 30 stitches off
and put them on a holder.
Beginning with the 49 stitches you reserved earlier, hang these
with the inside aligned next to the 0 line. Next take the edge of the
heel flap and pick up a stitch from every other row, 16 in all, till
you reach the heel. Hang the heel stitches on the needles. Pick up
the alternate rows on the other side of the heel flap. Stop.
You should have 111 stitches on needles. It will be a bit awkward
for a couple of rows near the heel. You should hang claw weights
here to make sure nothing pops off the needles.

Knit a straight row, then decrease 1 stitch on the heel side of the 0
line, and 1 stitch at the heel seam. Continue making 2 single (not
paired!) decreases on alternate rounds till you have 99 stitches left
on the needles - 32 rows in all. Congratulate yourself - you are
almost home free!

The Foot
Knit straight for 94 rows, or until the foot of the sock measures 9
inches long.
Decrease row: make a paired decrease at the 0 line, and single
decreases at each edge. Alternate straight row with decrease rows
till 16 stitches remain
Take the sock off and finish it. Sew the seam in your favorite
manner, and graft the toe stitches. Pick up the top stitches and knit
the ribbing if you need to
Repeat from the top for the second sock!

These instructions make a long sock! (See above LENGTHS section)This pattern was generated by The Sock Calculator

Hand Knit Lace Edging

-->

Hand Knit Lace Edging

I found directions for this unnamed edging at www.knitting-and.com but a websearch reveals numerous sites that present this edging; Some sources attribute the source of this pattern as far back as the 1890's, while others say the edging directions came from an unknown Australian source from the 40′s and were in the public domain.

This edging might be nice on the hem of sleeves; the bottom would flare making a tulip effect.

Here’s how to knit the portion below the blue line:

• Cast on 33 sts and knit one row.

• Row 1: k5, place marker, p16, (yo, k2tog) to last 2 sts, yo, k2. (– 34 stitches.)

• Row 2: k29, turn. (You will reach the marker and turn.)

• Row 3: p17, (yo, k2tog) to last 2 sts, yo, k2. (– 35 stitches.)

• Row 4: k to marker, slip marker, k5.

• Row 5: k5, slip marker, k16, (yo, k2tog) to last 2 sts, yo, k2 (– 36 stitches.)

• Row 6: k13, p18, turn. (You will reach the marker and turn.)

• Row 7: k1, (yo, k2tog) to last 2 sts, yo, k2. (– 37 stitches.)

• Row 8: k18, p14, slip marker, k5.

• Row 9: k5, slip marker, knit to end of row.

• Row 10: Cast off 4, k to marker, slip marker, k5.(– 33 stitches.)

• Repeat rows 1-10.

Notice that rows 2 and 6 are “short”; when you turn, the five stitches on the other side of the marker remain on the left needle. Turning like this results in a slightly ruffled flounce attached to a 5 stitch wide garter stitch strip.

If you want to attach to the edge of a piece you’ve already knit, as I did for the portion above the blue line, and which I don’t recommend, do the following:

• Cast on only 29 stitches.

• On the first knit row, work up to the final stitch. Then work a “k2tog”, working the last edging stitch and the first shawl stitch.

• On all odd rows except 3 and 7 change k5 to slip 1. (You will be slipping that k2tog.

On all even rows except 2 and 6, replace “k5″ with “k2tog” ; the k2tog will involve the last edging stitch and a stitch from the shawl edge.